Thursday, February 12, 2009

Market Heat

Market Heat

This is what it feels like to go to the market in February. It's summer and Nicaragua is about to hit the hottest months.

The sun is unrelenting (in comparison to the northern US, I'm sure the sun in Nicaragua is very kind compared to the Sahara).

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

I Can Stop Obsessing! (about this)

Conflation of Moisture and Volcanic Gasses

Have you ever become ever so slightly obsessed with something? You have to check it over and over several times a day?

Yes, me too.

But now it's done! Phew!

Thanks to you good people, I placed second in the photo competition! And granted while I like to think my photos are fantastic, there wasn't a huge amount of traffic to this site, so it felt a whole lot more like a popularity contest.

And you like me, you really really like me!

At least 199 of you do.

And that was enough for second place! Only 30 votes from first place!

Fortunately it's not only first that counts in this race. I won almost $2,000 worth of materials to help me take the GMAT which is a mandatory exam when applying for an MBA.

AND it just happens to be almost $2,000 more than I had to spend on this sort of thing!

Thank you!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Night Falling

Sugarcane Fields 2
Sugarcane Sunset (on the way home from work)

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Traditional Nicaragua

Form Ties
The Very Good Reason! (don't you love the form clamps/ties they're using?)

So the house has been undergoing a bit of construction lately. Ceramic tile is now covering concrete in half of the house, the shower drains have traps and there is a big hole which is becoming a beautiful window between the kitchen and living room.

As it is a small house, no room has been left unaffected by the chaos, especially the kitchen. And since there is no oven and the propane stove has been folded up (and we were without electricity for four days last week which means no fridge), time to eat out!

So this is my chance to share some very traditional Nicaraguan food with you instead of those peppermints I made to remind me of home!

Opening Whatever Tamal
Peeling back the corn husk of a 'yotamal'

Northern Nicaragua grows a huge amount of corn. Pinol is a drink made from elote, a type of corn and Nicaraguans traditionally call themselves (in songs or sayings) Pinoleros, or corn farmers.

Also made from elote is the yotamal. It is the moist ground kernals of elote mixed with sour cream, cheese or milk. Then a portion is wrapped in the corn husk, set upright next to it's brethren in a pan and boiled until firm.

yotamal
Yotamal with sour cream and cheese

They cost 25 cents each (they're about the size of a bar of soap) and to eat, you take off the husk, put more sour cream and cheese on it and dig in!

Because of the elote, it has the taste of cornbread, a little sweet, but a texture more solid and creamy than breadlike.

Tejada Platanos
Tejada (fried plantain strips), not a great picture, but the electricity in all of Rivas went out after I bought it, so I took pictures with my headlamp and a high ISO.

Nicaragua's answer to fast food is tejada. Tejada is a very local term and close as the town of Granada, about 30 miles away, they have different terminology for the same foods.

Tejada Outlet
The place for all your tejada needs

I never get tired of tejada, because, well, it's fried, crunchy strips of plantain.

Generally it comes with cabbage salad (like coleslaw, but with a lime dressing) and your choice of BBQ beef, pork or chicken also. And a large portion (more than I can eat for dinner) costs 45 cordoba, or $2.25.

Tejada Bags
Bags of tejada ready to go

There are several places to get tejada and many women sell it on their doorstep. I've found my favorite place that not only gets everything right, but also will put my salad in a separate baggy so the plantains don't get soggy.

Tejada Meat
Raw beef to the left, cooked to the right.

The nacatamal is undoubtedly the most traditional food in this southwestern part of Nicaragua.

Nacatamal Packaged
Nacatamal wrapped in a banana leaf

It is eaten on Christmas morning virtually without exception and for some, it is breakfast every Sunday morning.

Nacatamal Served
Served nacatamal

It is cooked in a manner similar to the yotamal, but it is wrapped in a banana leaf and filled with cornmeal, pork (with the bones left in), potatoes, rice, tomatoes and garlic, salt and spices.

Nacatamal
Rice and pork fill the insides

All these foods are eaten by different names throughout Central America. They have been flavorful sustenance since long before political borders.

And there is so much more, maduro, tostones, gallo pinto, but you can discover others when you come to taste for yourself!

Friday, February 6, 2009

So That's Why They Call it a Developing Country

Flor de Caña

So what I wanted was to show you how this, a field of sugar cane, moves from it's place in the field.

To it's place on this cart.

Payday

And then to it's place on this truck.

A little truck with your sugar

It happens at a factory where the whistle still blows when the shift ends.

Whistle Workday

It's a place called Ingenio Casur.

Ingenio Sugar

Roberto's father, grandfather and uncles all worked there at one time or another. When Roberto was robbed, it was a worker in the fields that found his documents. It is a major employer for the area.

Ingenio Smokestack

Unfortunately, while some places in Nicaragua are scarily easy to get into, this place is so afraid of what they called 'negative press' from my little post that weeks of phone calls and visits to get permission to go inside only resulted in getting the run around.

It makes you wonder what they're hiding.

Unhealthy pollution? Well, yes, but that's not exactly hidden and it's not exactly illegal.

Terrible working conditions? Well, they're probably not the best, it's hot, hard work. But I haven't heard of any worker deaths lately (as in the whole time I've been here) and it's important in an economy where jobs are difficult to come by.

So it's just because. Just because they felt like blocking me. There's no freedom of information act (although that wouldn't exactly apply in this case, you know what I mean), there's no way to bring light to a murky situation.

And that is what makes this a developing country.

Last week we didn't have water in the house for four days. The last day we also didn't have electricity, and when the water came back on, we were still without electricity for another three days.

We reported the outages, but each time were told it was the first reporting of the situation. Other neighbors said they'd been told the company was currently out of transformers (apparently the last one had blown a few blocks away) and we wouldn't get back power for two weeks.

Blackout 2

Eventually all services resumed, but meanwhile, you have only conflicting rumors of when and why it is all happening.

No one cares to make sure that the country of Nicaragua has an extra transformer in case one blows (or maybe several, they blow all the time).

No one cares to let the people affected know why, when or how.

And it is culturally accepted. That is probably one of the most important parts. People generally don't get mad and do something. Sometimes they're so beaten down by the system they don't even really get mad.

Apathy becomes necessary for survival, you don't care about these things so that you still have energy to get up, pull water from the well, take a bucket bath and get yourself to work that provides no reward besides the paycheck (but not much of one!), without a car.

President Daniel Ortega still has billboards up from the election two years ago that say 'Power to the People'.

But the people are a dissonant voice. They are not together, coordinated, organized. They do not have a direction. And how can you finish developing without a direction?

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Move in day!

Moving Day

So it's been a little while in coming, with many false starts and many temporary visitors, but there are finally NPH pequenos living in the homes on the new property!

They're in their last years of high school and going to the public schools in the area. They're clearly still in move-in mode, but it's good to see kids using the homes!

Family Lunch

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

First Day of School!

First Day of School

Today is the first day of school! Masses of student walk with new uniforms, new shoes, new backpacks.

Walking to School

New friendships, new challenges...

I love new beginnings, I always loved the first day of school, every detail so carefully considered ahead of time.

I am so fortunate to still have new beginnings: the beginning of each new construction job, the beginning of each new position in a new organization. The incredible number of possibilities is thrilling!

School Day